Eating like hypocritical toddlers

I had a friend whose 4-year-old son would eat only white foods. As many mothers can relate, this is not an unusual phase for young kids to go through. For a year, she gritted her teeth and served him nothing but pasta, rice, potatoes, white bread, and chicken breast.

I was thinking of this recently when I encountered yet another rant against “white” foods, the evil food du jour. You know, that whole glycemic index thing. Avoid white bread, white potatoes, white sugar, pasta, white rice. They’ll make you fat and lead to heart disease and foggy brain and no sex and who knows what else.

It’s like toddlerhood in reverse.

I love whole grains. Always have. I actually prefer whole-wheat bread and whole-grain pasta. (I do confess to a weakness for sugar, white and otherwise.) For diabetics, refined carbs can indeed pose a problem. And people in America and the rest of Western civilization probably eat way too many refined starches. (I do have to wonder why there aren’t more fat people in eastern Asia, given the vast quantities of white rice they eat.)

But I can’t help but notice that even as the diet books trumpet the glycemic index and your sister-in-law refuses to eat any vegetable with eyes, the “frozen treats” aisle in the average American supermarket keeps getting bigger. And bigger. And bigger. Any day now, “ice cream novelties” will engulf the entire store. Call me suspicious, but I have the sneaking feeling that maybe just a few of the folks who shun white aren’t counting the white sugar in Fudgesicles.

Come to think of it, the friend’s kid who would eat only white foods did make exceptions for things like, say, chocolate and red licorice.

I guess we never really outgrow toddlerhood.

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Spirit of the Green Fairy returns

Van Gogh supposedly was under its influence when he lopped off his ear. It was blamed for murder, mayhem, and depravity of all sorts. It inspired a painting by Edgar Degas that enraged Victorian England. Its reputation was so bad that the United States, Switzerland and France banned its sale in the early 20th century.

Now, absinthe is back. Not only that, but as the New York Times reports, it is being crafted by artisans as a high-end (read, expensive) liquor. The U.S. legalized sales of absinthe earlier this year, so absinthe is slowly trickling into bars and liquor stores.

At its best, absinthe, traditionally nicknamed the Green Fairy, is an emerald green, multilayered liquor with a licorice flavor and hints of other herbs, including a trace of the bitter herb wormwood. At its worst…well, let’s just say “medicinal” is the kindest word to describe it.

To drink absinthe the traditional way, pour it into a tulip-shaped glass, set an absinthe spoon (a decorative, slotted spoon) over the top of the glass and top that with a cube of sugar, then pour ice water into the glass. The water turns the liquor cloudy and, fortunately for the mad artists among us, reduces its potency.

Modern absinthe makers say the sugar is unnecessary for a well-made absinthe, which should not be bitter.

Absinthe’s alleged (and highly exaggerated) tendency to induce madness was often credited to one of its ingredients, the medicinal herb wormwood, which contains varying amounts of thujone, a hallucinogen. Of course, the madness may owe even more to the fact that absinthe is 100+ proof before it’s diluted. Enraged at his friend Gauguin, Van Gogh, not the model of sanity in the best of times, had been drinking that and who knows what else for hours when he lopped off his left earlobe and presented it to a lady of the evening.

Modern, properly distilled absinthe contains only trace amounts of thujone. It’s still high in alcohol, though. So be careful how much you drink if you value your ears.

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Chocolate covered pretzels

A couple of weeks ago I was visiting friends in Pennsylvania and worked in a trip to Philadelphia’s Reading Terminal Market, one of my favorite places to visit. It’s a feast for the eyes and senses of every sort of food imaginable, from freshly butchered meats to just-picked produce to marbled cookies.

The Chocolate by Mueller display, tucked away in the 12th and Fulton Street corner of the market, grabbed my attention. It’s hard to walk past an anatomically correct chocolate heart without stopping. (Mueller is famous, or maybe infamous, for eccentric chocolate creations.) Then there were the chocolate pretzels. Top-quality Pennsylvania pretzels are robed in dark chocolate, white chocolate, milk chocolate, and/or peanut butter milk chocolate. The blend of salty crunch with smooth sweet chocolate is irresistible. I brought some home, and they disappeared fast.

Milk chocolate is the favored coating among Mueller’s customers, though I prefer the dark chocolate. You don’t have to travel to the Reading Market to buy these treats. You can buy the chocolate-covered pretzels, chocolate heart, and all sorts of other candies, ranging from sugar-free jelly beans to truffles, in the Chocolate by Mueller online candy store.

By the way, the best place to get plain Pennsylvania pretzels is the Sturgis Pretzel Bakery, the oldest (and to my mind, the best) commercial pretzel bakery in the United States.

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Honeycrisp is the perfect name for this apple

I’m not a big apple eater. One of the reasons is that I rarely encounter an eating apple that has just the right flavor and texture.

First, apples should actually taste like something besides vaguely flavored cardboard. I like my apples on the tart side, but not too tart (Jonathan apples, for example, are great for pies, but sometimes a bit too tart to eat plain). They have to be really crisp. The slightest touch of softness or mealiness turns me off. (McIntosh apples taste great, but lack the crispness I crave.)

Granny Smith, Gala and Fuji apples come very close—when you get a good one. Increasingly, too many of them are not that good.

That is why I’m always on the lookout for “new” apples. I was in Michigan a couple of weekends ago and saw a sign for Honeycrisp apples, a variety that was new to me. I bit into one, and suddenly I love apples again.

The Honeycrisp, a pretty red and green freckled apple, is fairly tart, but still with a good amount of sweetness. And it is one of the crispest apples I’ve tried.

A cross between the Macoun and the Honeygold, the Honeycrisp was developed in 1960, but has been commercially grown in the Midwest only in the past decade. It’s still hard to find outside of orchards and farm markets in season (September-October), though you can order it online at Honeycrisp.com.

If you’re anywhere where this tasty apple is being sold, grab it while you can. It’s a keeper.

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The joys of cherry season

homemade cherry pie“Ah!” I shrieked. My husband stomped on the brakes, wondering if we were about to hit something.

“Look!” I said. “The pie cherries are in!”

We were in Michigan, dropping our daughter off for camp, and were passing a roadside farm stand. There it was: “Pie Cherries, 99 cents a pound.” I was lucky; the season was running a bit earlier than usual.

The Michigan sour cherry season is brief, only a couple of weeks in July. Most of the sour cherries are sold to food processors to be canned, frozen and turned into ready-made baked goods. Those that are sold fresh are highly perishable. Because they’re meant to be cooked, pie cherries are softer than the standard sweet cherries like Bing, and deteriorate rapidly. You have to buy them, pit them, and use them within about 24 hours.

Toss in the facts that so few people make fruit pies from scratch these days and that pitting cherries by hand is tedious work, and it’s no surprise that fresh pie cherries are getting increasingly harder to find.

This year, they were well worth seeking out—the pie cherries I bought were outstanding, bursting with flavor. I ate plenty of them as is, and put the rest into my famous cherry pie, an eagerly awaited annual ritual in our family.

You can make this pie with frozen, thawed or canned cherries (unsweetened, not cherry pie filling), but fresh cherries are the best.

Rather make a cobbler? Check out my fresh cherry cobbler recipe.

Fresh Cherry Pie

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Crust:
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into bits
1/2 cup chilled vegetable shortening, cut into bits
4 to 5 tablespoons ice water

Filling:
5 cups pitted fresh sour (pie) cherries
2 1/2 tablespoons quick-cooking (fine-grained) tapioca, or cornstarch
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons Kirsch (cherry brandy) and/or 1/2 teaspoon almond extract

Make the crust: Whisk together the flour and salt. Cut in the butter and shortening until well-blended; mixture should be coarse and mealy. Stir in enough water so that dough just comes together in a ball.

Press dough into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Divide dough into 2 parts, one slightly larger than the other. Roll out the larger portion on a lightly floured board or pastry cloth to a circle about 11 inches in diameter.

Drape dough over rolling pin and ease it into a 9-inch pie pan. Press the dough gently into the bottom of the pan and trim the edges. Refrigerate while you prepare the filling.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F.

To make the filling: Combine cherries and their juice (if using canned or frozen, thawed cherries, use 3/4 cup of the juice) with tapioca or cornstarch, sugar, and Kirsch and/or almond extract.

Pour the cherries into the prepared pie shell.

Roll out the remaining pastry to 1/8-inch thickness. With a biscuit or cookie cutter, cut into rounds or other shapes (stars are nice). Arrange the cutouts in overlapping circles atop the cherry filling.

Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 degrees and bake for another 35 to 45 minutes, or until the crust is browned and the filling is bubbly.

Serve slightly warm, with vanilla ice cream.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

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Cobb Salad: A meal in a salad bowl

Much to my delight, I realized today that I have the makings of a Cobb Salad on hand. This hearty mix of lettuce, eggs, bacon, avocados, tomatoes and blue cheese is my favorite salad meal. It seems to have fallen out of favor during the 1990s low-fat craze, but recently I’ve noticed it on more restaurant menus.

Cobb salad is named for Bob Cobb, who was owner of Hollywood’s legendary Brown Derby Restaurant in the 1930s. Legend has it that he invented the salad one night in 1937 out of leftovers he rummaged from the kitchen. Or maybe he invented it in 1929. Or maybe his chef really invented it. Whatever the case, it quickly caught on.

Some restaurants serve Cobb Salad with blue cheese or ranch dressing, but I consider that overkill. The blue cheese should be lightly crumbled into the salad, which is dressed with a vinaigrette. Cobb Salad does require that you plan ahead; the bacon, eggs and chicken need to be cooked and cooled before you toss the salad together.

Whisk together your own vinaigrette out of white wine vinegar, olive oil and a bit of dry mustard, or use your favorite store-bought vinaigrette.

Serve this with a little Italian or French bread and some iced tea and you’ve got a simple, satisfying dinner.

Cobb Salad

Makes 2 servings

2 strips crisp-cooked bacon
2 hard-cooked (boiled) eggs
1 medium avocado
1 medium tomato
1/2 medium head iceberg lettuce
1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese
1/2 cup chopped celery or 1/4 cup chopped green onions (optional)
Vinaigrette (homemade or store-bought)

Crumble the bacon. Coarsely chop the eggs. Peel and pit the avocado, then coarsely chop. Chop and seed the tomato.

Tear or chop the lettuce into bite-size pieces. Divide between 2 dinner plates. Sprinkle the bacon, eggs, avocado, tomato, blue cheese and celery over the lettuce and toss. Add vinaigrette to taste and toss again.

Serve immediately.

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The China syndrome

The massive recall of pet foods containing wheat gluten contaminated with melamine, an industrial chemical, has focused attention on an issue most of us would rather not think about: the heightened food safety risks that come with widespread importing of foodstuffs.

As demand for its food products has exploded, China has tried to improve food safety. But it’s difficult in a land where there are so many scattered small family farms and pressure to keep up with the ever increasing demand. Drugged farmed animals, industrial pollutants, overuse of pesticides, cutting corners to save costs—all have led to food scandals in China and abroad. (In one of the more notorious cases, substandard infant formula caused malnutrition in hundreds of babies and killed at least 12.) Europe, Japan and even Hong Kong have banned some Chinese food imports.

Americans treat their pets like children, and a scandal of this magnitude will hopefully exert pressure on Chinese suppliers and the American companies that deal with them to tighten the controls.

But this may also be a good time to question why we are importing so much of our food. Does anyone else find it ironic that America, the world’s leading exporter of wheat, is importing wheat gluten from China?

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Steamed up over espresso

I got an espresso machine for Christmas and I’ve had fun playing with it ever since.

Reading up on the art of espresso making has left me a tad dizzy, though. Espresso lovers make wine snobs look tolerant. The laws of espresso leave little room for forgiveness:

  • One must have the proper amount of cream (froth, not the dairy product) atop the coffee.
  • One must never drink milky espresso drinks (cappuccino and lattes) after noon. Actually, one should never drink lattes at all, since they’re a crime against the universe.
  • One must produce espresso that is full-bodied but not bitter (good luck with that one).
  • One must grind the coffee just right, in a grinder with burrs, not blades.
  • One must use a pump-powered espresso maker, not, heaven forbid, a steam-driven machine.

I break just about all of these laws, starting with the one that forbids lattes after noon. But then I’m not an espresso purist, just someone who likes strong, flavorful coffee with a lot of sweet frothy milk.

There is a certain comfort to the ritual of making espresso. But what really attracts me to this method of coffee making is the steam. I love that high-pitched cry when the steaming wand meets the cold milk. I stare in fascination when the machine hisses and belches steam, like a classic train locomotive pulling into the station. It’s awesome.

Let the aficionados argue over the art and science of making espresso. To me, it’s just fun.

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Usher in the New Year with candied walnuts or pecans

Every year I make a big batch of cookies to use for host/hostess gifts. And every year, they somehow disappear before the holidays actually arrive. I’m not sure how—I think the dogs are eating them. At any rate, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

What this means is that I’m often left short handed when party time rolls around, like the New Year’s Eve party I’ve been invited to. Fortunately I almost always have walnuts or pecans in my cupboard, and can whip up a batch of candied nuts in no time.

To be honest, people like them more than cookies. They’re not only delicious, but healthier (at least compared to cookies). The sugar and butter are balanced at least somewhat by the fiber and oils in the nuts.

This recipe is more forgiving than some candy recipes. If you cook the candy a little past the soft ball stage, it will still be fine.

Candied Walnuts or Pecans

1/2 cup brown sugar (light or dark)
1/2 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons butter
1/4 teaspoon salt (omit if using salted butter)
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 cups walnuts or pecan halves, toasted *

Butter a large baking sheet with sides and set aside.

Combine the sugars, butter, salt and cinnamon in a heavy-bottomed 2-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Cook to the soft-ball stage. (A candy thermometer registers 235 degrees F, or a small amount of the syrup dropped into cold water forms a soft, pliable ball.) Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Stir in the walnuts, making sure they are all coated with the candy.

Scrape candied nut mix onto the buttered baking sheet in a single layer. Use 2 forks to separate the candied walnuts. Let cool.

Store in an airtight tin or other container.

Makes 4 cups.

* To toast nuts, spread them out in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes, or until they smell toasted. Pour into a bowl and let cool.

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Trans fat nannies

Earlier this month, New York City became the first—and hopefully, the last—city in the United States to ban the use of artificial trans fats in restaurant foods.

It is no secret that trans fatty acids are bad for you. They’ve been shown to lower “good” cholesterol while raising the bad stuff, making them even worse than saturated fats at raising the risk of heart disease. But educating people and businesses about the dangers of such foods, then letting them make their own choices, would seem to make more sense. It’s not as though anyone with an IQ over 50 actually believes that fried chicken and doughnuts are health food.

Those of us who have been kicking around the food beat for a while remember when the nutrition-minded folk raised a stink about using lard and beef fat in fried foods and baked goods. The food industry switched to palm oil. Oops, palm oil is highly saturated. They switched to palm-free vegetable shortening. Oops again, shortening is full of nasty trans fats. So now you can buy shortening without trans fat. It makes an OK pie crust (a little more fragile than one made with regular shortening), but I have to wonder what they’re doing now to harden vegetable oil, and whether 10 years down the road we’re going to hear that the new shortening is even worse than the old stuff. *

As Grandma said, everything in moderation. If you eat gobs of fried foods and pastries instead of your veggies, which fat they’re fried in is only one of your worries.

Tell you what, all you state-sponsored health and lifestyle nannies: If you honestly care about our health, how about giving us universal health coverage? Otherwise, shut up and let me eat my pie.

* Update, summer 2007: Sure enough, at least one study has found that the newly formulated trans fat-free shortenings might raise blood sugar and lower “good” cholesterol.

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