Dino and the Italian Deli

The absence of Dino was the first sign that the owners of my favorite Italian deli, Minelli’s, have passed the torch to a younger generation.

Not too long ago, Minelli’s moved to new quarters. One thing that apparently didn’t move with them was the bobblehead Dean Martin doll that used to watch over the meat case.

You pretty much gotta be over 45 to remember who Dean Martin was. (For the youngsters among you, Dean Martin, born Dino Crocetti, was an Italian-American singer, actor and comedian who was very popular from the ’50s through the ’70s. He was part of the Hollywood “Rat Pack” that also included such luminaries as Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jr.)

I was happy to see that a portrait of Jesus and a statue of St. Joseph (patron saint of Italy) still presided over the meat case. One of my food rules is to never trust an Italian deli where Jesus and/or Joseph are nowhere to be seen.

Thankfully, Dino’s absence hasn’t affected the quality at Minelli’s. The deli serves up unpretentious, reasonably priced, good Italian foodstuffs. Homemade meatballs and ravioli. Mama Minelli’s olive salad. Mortadella that even the counterman swoons for. (”Try this,” he urges, offering a piece. “It melts in your mouth. It won’t go sour.” ) Hot Italian sausage that strikes just the right flavor balance among the fennel, garlic and hot pepper. Provolone that tastes like real cheese instead of flavored plastic. Sicilian rice balls and tiramisu and Italian amaretti.

Thank you, St. Joseph, for places like Minelli’s. With or without Dino.